Glossary

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Ph level

pH stands for "potential hydrogen" and is used to describe the acidalkaline ratio of a substance, which ranges from 0 (the most acidic) to 14 (the most alkaline).

The skin's barrier, which is known as the acid mantle, is responsible for keeping in lipids and moisture while blocking germs, pollution, toxins, and bacteria.

To work its best, the acid mantle should be slightly acidic, at a 5.5 pH balance. When it's too alkaline, skin becomes dry and sensitive.

When the pH balance of the skin is at its optimum the tan will apply perfectly, last longer and make for happy clients!

The Fitzpatrick scale

The Fitzpatrick scale (also Fitzpatrick skin typing test; or Fitzpatrick phototyping scale) is a numerical classification schema for human skin color. It was developed in 1975 by American dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick as a way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. It was initially developed on the basis of skin color to measure the correct dose of UVA for PUVA therapy, and when the initial testing based only on hair and eye colour resulted in too high UVA doses for some, it was altered to be based on the patient's reports of how their skin responds to the sun; it was also extended to a wider range of skin types. The Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognized tool for dermatological research into human pigmentation.

The following list shows the six categories of the Fitzpatrick scale

  • Type I .. always burns, never tans (palest; freckles)
  • Type II .. usually burns, tans minimally (light colored but darker than fair)
  • Type III .. sometimes mild burn, tans uniformly (golden honey or olive)
  • Type IV .. burns minimally, always tans well (moderate brown)
  • Type V .. very rarely burns, tans very easily (dark brown)
  • Type VI .. never burns (deeply pigmented dark brown to darkest brown)

The Fitzpatrick scale is a tool for determining what percentage of DHA would be best to avoid over development with sunless tanning. When used in conjunction with your underlying skin tone you can easily determine which tan base is best suited to deliver an amazing colour and the amount of time it should be left on the skin.

How does a spray tan work

Spray tan solution consists of a number of chemicals, the active ingredient being the naturally occurring chemical, dihydroxyacetone (DHA). If you're familiar with what happens to a piece of apple when you leave it out in the air for a while, then you have seen the naturally occurring effect of DHA.

DHA is a simple, colourless carbohydrate from certain plants such as sugar beets. It was originally used to treat skin pigmentation problems, until Coppertone discovered its effectiveness as a self-tanning product. DHA causes a reaction with the dead cells in the surface layer of skin, gradually turning the colour to the desired bronze. This is also why DHA spray tans are temporary - after a few days to a week, the stained cells are naturally sloughed off.

Tan solution used in the salon contains an instant dye or bronzer to give an immediate tanning effect while the DHA develops.

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